This is my
bugle call to Zagats and to every other prestigious reviewer
anywhere. If anyone, after dining at Milos Estiatorio (restaurant,
in Greek) located at 1600 North Federal Highway in Boca
(561-750-6720), disagrees with this review I will re-commence my
food training and start all over. I humbly ask my review colleagues
to get to Milos and tell your readers and listeners about this, the
finest Greek Seafood Restaurant anywhere in South Florida.
I don’t even know where to begin, except by making a confession. I
was raised on Greek cuisine. I mean that I ate Greek cooking
everyday at virtually every meal, except for the times my mother and
father intentionally cooked a different nation’s specialty. Let me
explain. My father was a great Greek chef. A professional, sought
after by the leading restaurants in NYC for many, many years. It was
at his side that I learned cooking and baking and, far more
importantly, it was at his side that I learned the subtleties of
great cooking versus mediocre cooking. It was at his side that I
learned how to instill the needed “magic” into food creations and it
was there that I realized that I could never rise to even near his
level of artistry.
So, and with his blessings, I moved into other areas for my
livelihood. Still, I kept my experiences and have, for years now,
been sharing them with my readers. I start by telling you that true
Greek-style dining in a Greek restaurant is equal to dining in a
Greek home. The patrons and servers are family. The owners and their
guests are sharing in a celebration of life and sensuality,
descending from thousands of years of Greek history: perfecting
recipes, customs and traditions. The art of entertaining was
and remains a cornerstone of Greek hospitality.
Milos Estiatorio is the paradigm for this philosophy (I always
wanted to use that word because it means “perfect example,” and here
it is absolutely accurate.) And, so, permit me to take you on
a gastronome’s journey into the rarefied world of epicurean
delights. That was a mouthful, but not nearly so as the first
courses. The evening began with a Milos Special, paper-thin
zucchini, eggplant and saganaki cheese, lightly, but crisply fried.
I was a goner from this point. This sensational opening eats like
potato chips, tastes like heaven with a pinch of salt and the
accompanying cheese just makes you want to go back for more
eggplant/zucchini. Any one of us could have made a night of this
alone–but, and you know me, I ate on. Munching on the pitas and
breads became an event unto itself. But then … Out came a giant
plate (lazy-Susan-like) of Greek spreads.
Now listen to this; Greek spreads are never so-so; either they are
like cardboard sprinkled with motor-oil (filled with pits) or they
are like simultaneous massages from exotic examples of human
perfection. Guess what this was? Tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber, garlic
and olive oil),Tarama (fish roe, olive oil and lemon), Scordalia
(almonds and garlic), Ktipiti (Holland peppers, feta cheese, and
olive oil) and Melitzanosalata (eggplant and caviar) caused us, yet
again, to want this as our only course. But, please, it’s me and I
must have some sort of eating dis-order because I kept saying, “…dis
is great and dis is terrific and dis is delicious…” For me, the
Octopus (charbroiled) Salad, swimming in a unique blend of olive oil
and vinegar dressing, was and remains the highlight of an evening
filled with highlights. The Sardines and Marides (fried sea smelts)
and Kapnisto Platters raise decadence to a new level. To calm
me down they next brought out but two salads: A large green salad
and Spitiki, an organic mix of greens, onions and tomatoes. The
secret to great Greek salads is thse gentle and delicate balance
between the vinegar and pure olive oil and the interaction of the
salt (sea) and spices (few).
No one, until now, could come close to my mother’s offering.
Milos Estiatorio at least tied her…maybe a little better but on this
level it really doesn’t matter. Now, I must digress, but
you’ll see why in a minute. When you enter this eatery you are
greeted with a store-wide fresh fish display with the entire
evening’s ration of fish displayed type for type and size for size.
Each guest can, following his or her ordering, inspect the choice as
it is lovingly placed in a serving dish or cooking pot and brought
to the soon to be delighted diner at the table. Upon approval it is
then (and not before) delivered to the chef for preparing and
serving. Yannis Diasynos, the proud owner, chef and raconteur of
world travels and international escapades, watches over each patron
and each dish and each course as if it were being offered at his
daughter’s engagement party and the guests were critical groom’s
family waiting for a mistake. There were no mistakes, no foul-ups,
no missteps and no disappointed revelers.
Yannis taught us that we should look at the raw fish’s gills. If
they are very red that means that the fish is fresh and healthy. He
taught us that when cut open, the belly of the fish should be full
and pink to red if it’s a salmon-like fish and creamy white and
meaty looking if it is from the “white” fish group. It seems
obvious, but some people think, as an example, that white fish are
fish that appear white on the outside … and that salmon-like fish
are pink to red on the outside. Not true. It’s the meat that gives
the fish its typing and the keen eye that can pick the freshest,
sweetest and tender fish that can be found anywhere, and here Yannis
does the picking for us and we do the observing and approving.
Enchanting! And so, our fish was chosen, grilled and prepared to
exact standards and served with Greek-style sliced potatoes and
sweet and creamy fresh vegetables.
Usually, I spend most of a review on the Lamb Chops, because Lamb
Chops are a Greek staple. If you cannot prepare them correctly you
cannot hold yourself out as a Greek restaurant. I was prepared to
let Milos off the hook, as it is, after all, a “seafood” restaurant.
I had nothing to worry about. The chops were tender, sweet, meaty
and char-grilled to imbue them with a perfect juiciness. Astounding!
It is almost impossible to imagine that I was still prepared to
sample more … but dessert, ah, dessert … no! Greek dessert;
there’s the finishing touch. We had, in addition to great Greek
coffee, several unique (in preparation) classic Greek treats … some
with yogurt, honey and nuts, and some with a Beignet-like
crispiness, some sweet, some tangy: all, totally insane. I
seldom review Greek restaurants knowing full well that I will,
inevitably, be disappointed. Historically that has been the case:
not any more. This IS the place. This is THE place.
By Charles Marcanetti
Dine Magazine
Dine South Beach To Palm Beach Magazine
Winter 2008/2009 Milo's Seafood:
'When guests come into Milo's Seafood, they can select their fish
with a changing choice of Pompano, Sea Bass or Swordfish.
Displayed at the entrance on a bed of cracked ice this provides the
added confidence of knowing the meal was delivered that morning
straight off the boat. In addition to the fresh seafood, all
of the fresh herbs used come from the garden out back.
Master Chef and Owner Yanni Diassinos honed his craft from the age
of five behind the hearth of his grandfather's restaurant in native
Rhodes. His mother scolded him constantly for hiding in the
kitchen rather than playing outside. Stints at the luxurious
Hotel Roma also served as an inspiration for his Greek and Italian
inspired menu. Grill Chef, Joseph Rubino, son of top chop man
Bobby Rubino, knows better than to mess with what he calls 'Gramma's
Recipes,' such as the Youvetsi with orzo baked in a mesquite wood
oven smothered in Roma tomatoes, herbs from the backyard garden and
chips of cheese from Parma.'
South Florida Business News
August /
September, 2009 :
Dr. Howard Stoller 'Lao Tzu said "the journey of a thousand miles begins with a
single step." I say "Why settle for ordinary when you can have
extraordinary?" It's true! Right here in Boca Raton,
with just a few steps you can enter another world. A world
rich with history, art, culture, music, dance, poetry and healing,
great minds, hearts and souls, not to mention cuisine that will
absolutely knock your sock off!'
The Greek American Herald
February, 2009 :
Cristiane Roget, dinemag.net 'Yanni takes obvious pride not only in the kitchen but in his
second in command Joseph Rubino who carries on the legacy of his
father the 'King of Prime', Bobby Rubino where only prime cuts are
served. Yanni honed his craft only later at the Culinary
Institute of Athens, and Paul Bocus in the South of France'
BocaNews.com
March 30, 2008 : Prudy Taylor 'Milo's in Boca offers a menu of wonderful Greek dishes including
an incredible array of 40 varieties of seafood imported by a group
of seafood suppliers that range from small, family-owned fishing
companies in the Greek Isles, the shores of Morocco and Portugal to
independent North and South American fisherman in Florida and Nova
Scotia.'
iDine.com Reviews
07.15.2009
: HH - Boca Raton, Fl 'I had the lobster special, 2 lb. lobster with appetizer and
dessert. The food was wonderful and the service was
exceptional. I would go back in a minute.'
06.02.2009 : EW -
Boca Raton, Fl 'I enjoy going to Milos. The food is excellent and the
service is caring. I enjoy the entertainment in the lounge.
Music just adds to the overall enjoyment.'
03.18.2009 : EE -
Highland Beach, Fl 'Excellent seafood and great selection of starters!'
03.09.2009 : HS -
Boca Raton, Fl 'It is a very good restaurant. The food and service is
excellent and the pricing is very fair.'
02.02.2009 : GH -
Miami Beach, Fl 'This was a wonderful dining experience and I look forward to
returning soon! The staff was pleasant and very efficient.
The menu was reasonably priced and offered a terrific variety to
suit all tastes. The food was plentiful and beautifully
prepared and the taste is one of the best Greek restaurants I've
ever experienced - not to be missed.'
